We’re on a week-long break in Denmark, spending a few days by the northern shores of Zeeland (in what is usually called the Danish Riviera) before heading down to Copenhagen for the weekend and then crossing the bridge across the border for another week in Malmö. Our temporary home is a clean and comfortable family hostel in Tisvildeleje, itself a sleepy village by the sea, and we spend our days reading, walking, eating and making excursions to places like Gilleleje – a small harbour town where local peope helped rescue Danish Jews and resistance fighters across the border during the Second World War – whenever we feel like moving a bit further. The best thing about this place? There are several: the mesmerising light; the silence and crooked pines in Troldeskoven (the troll forest), and Tisvildeleje’s colourful beach huts. My favourite place to be, though, is in the stormy sea by Helenekilde – the perfect location for a bracing, late afternoon swim.
Read some of my published guides to and stories about Copenhagen here